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Wednesday, November 21st, Istanbul, Turkey
They say change is good and it seems that the Zia crew has experienced a lot of changes over the past few weeks.  The problem with change, though, is that it doesn't always feel good at the time.  The stress and anxiety of logistics reduce your mental dexterity to a fraction of its usual capacity, and just when you get a little break from that tension, the emotional seesaw takes over.   Luckily, in all the rush, we haven't had too much time to dwell on it since leaving Athens a little less than two weeks ago.  We've also managed to mix in a little fun in the midst of all the preparations, getting to know some of the other cruising families and couples at Yacht Marine.  Our Istanbul adventure has gotten off to a good start, as well.  Most importantly, the goal of all this recent change is to bring us back to our family and friends.  As I always remind Joe, "Some things are worth the effort."
 
Perhaps the hardest emotional adjustment has been our separation from Hobie.  After several days worth of earnest pleas on the morning radio net, we found a wonderful family who has agreed to adopt Hobie just until we return to Zia in April.  Helen and Peter and their seven year old daughter, Tiger, are long term cruisers who have resisted the temptation to have a cat onboard, despite being cat people in their former lives.  This seemed like a perfect compromise.  Our hearts soared when they called us on the radio.  The transition is bound to be a little rough for poor Hobie, but luckily, cats are very adaptable and I am sure after a few days he will feel right at home with his new foster family.  Our alternative was to send him to a cat shelter with a wonderful British lady who looks after 200 wild cats.  Certainly that would have worked, although I'm not sure we would recognize our cat after five months in that crowd!
  
               Playing in the bag of one of Cassie's birthday presents, Hobie will be sorely missed by the whole Zia crew.
 
Preparing to leave Zia accounted for most of the logistics during our 11 day sojourn in Marmaris.  We were extremely lucky that we stayed in the water for most of that time.  Out of the water we loose many of the systems we rely upon repeatedly throughout the day and night, living on the boat.  We used that time to take care of the cleaning and maintenance items that require free flowing seawater.  Joe was busy checking off the items on the boat list while I spent much of my time cleaning and cooking.  With such little notice before leaving the boat, we had just begun to work through our stores of food.  That extra chunk of Parmigiano I bought in Brindisi and the Greek tomatoes, peppers, feta and onions, the tuna we still had left in the freezer since our last fishing success back in Italy all needed to be eaten or given away.  Suffice to say, we ate like kings during our last week in the water, and now there are also a few boats in Yacht Marine that won't need to be hitting the grocery store any time soon.
 
The emotional backlash of leaving our home for such a long time will sink in slowly over the next few months.  Ironically, we are technically "going home" for the winter but nearly two and a half years later, home is definitely on our boat, wherever she may be.  The torrential downpours we have been enduring in Marmaris more than half the time we've been there made it a little easier to say goodbye to the confines of Zia but the first hint of nice weather will undoubtedly provoke a little homesickness.
                                       
 
Hoping that we hadn't forgotten any crucial little detail, we loaded up our bags in the taxi at 5:30 Monday afternoon for the trip to Dalaman Airport, an hour and a half away.  A little voice inside my head kept warning me that something was wrong so I checked our reservations again to make sure we were going to the right airport (Bodrum Airport is also within 100 kilometers of Marmaris).  Much to our relief, the whole trip up to Istanbul went smoothly.  Our bags were accepted without complaint.  In addition to every stitch of winter clothing we own, we had to pack all the school books for the girls, so we were a little worried about our weight restrictions.  As promised, a driver was waiting for us at Istanbul's Ataturk airport to take us to our rented apartment in the heart of the old city.  Although we didn't arrive until 11pm, it was as smooth a trip as I could have hoped for. 
    
 
Sultanahmet Suites is a perfect spot for us to hang our hats for a few weeks to explore the city.  Having a couple of rooms in which to spread out and home school the girls, and a kitchenette to fix our own breakfast or light meals, makes our extended stay here very comfortable.  It also happens to be located within walking distance of many of the prime attractions in the city.  It might take another day or two to learn our way around the narrow winding streets, but we haven't gotten lost yet!  We are five blocks outside of the tourist zone, so we can find some fantastic meals with real authentic character for a pittance.  Joy, the owner of the building, offers up unerring advice on where to go and how to get a feel for the real Istanbul when you want a break from the typical tourist attractions. 
 
The Turkish people are wonderfully friendly and welcoming.  It can be a little overbearing at times, as numerous store owners call you into their shops or restaurants as you stroll along the street.  We get a lot of extra attention with the girls.  It is a rare Turk that you pass in the street that doesn't look at them with a smile on their face.  Many don't stop there and will speak to them or touch their hair or cheek.  The girls are very good natured about this invasion of their personal space.  I imagine the novelty of it will wear off at some point, but for the time being, it feels like we are rock stars, graciously accepting the adoration of loyal fans.  I love the extra chance it gives us to connect with the locals. 
 
We've taken it pretty easy in Istanbul so far as we are working through colds that we picked up in Marmaris.  School is back on the priority list after missing six of the last 10 days.  Luckily, while Joe and I were working on the boat, the girls hooked up with a passel of other boat kids and had a fantastic time with little input from us.  As a matter of fact, they even expressed regret at leaving for so long.  I take this as a very good sign.  There is bound to be some turmoil when we pack up again in the spring, but it will be a lot easier now that they have something to look forward to upon their return.
 
In the end, what we really hope all these changes will do is lengthen our cruising life.  Getting a break from home schooling and the constant togetherness is crucial.  Barcelona worked out wonderfully last year, but the options are much more limited here in Turkey.  Plus, we are all thrilled to have the chance to hang with our family and friends for an extended period of time.  Two and a half years is a long time to be away.  We are looking forward to a few months of stationary living in a familiar environment in the company of loved ones.
 
Happy Thanksgiving to all of our American friends!  We have many things to be thankful for, and our family and friends from all around the world are chief among them.
 
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Many thanks to our friend Craig Homenko for his assistance in setting up the website.
We also would like to thank our buddy Scott Brunner who has been kind enough to host the website on his server.
 

 

   

 
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