Oh lala! France has been such a magnificent detour!
We are thoroughly enjoying it, and wondering how exactly the
locals manage the delicate balancing act between the
wonderfully uplifting lifestyle of the region and the
slippery decline into total decadence. Clearly it is a
skill that must be developed if one is to spend any length
of time here, for the temptation to eat and drink and lounge
your days away, soaking up the ambiance and watching your
waistline grow is frankly hard to resist.
We spent three nights anchored in Golfe Juan, close to
the town of Juan Les Pins. Our anchorage was a little
ways away from the downtown area and had a beautiful view of
the stunning homes that dot the peninsula that protected us
from the northeasterly winds and swell. The water was
chilly but crystal clear and the days were still warm enough
to encourage the occasional dip.
Juan Les Pins is a little not-so-chichi town on the very
chichi French Riviera. We fell in love with it
immediately when we found a great little cafe off the main
drag where we were warmly greeted by the owner. He
served up the native version of lemonade for the girls, in
between milling around the tables of locals enjoying an
afternoon coffee. The town's playground was full of
kids running around and parents attentively watching.
The girls fit right in, although they complained about not
speaking the language. I pointed out that aside from
French, I could hear Spanish, Portuguese and Italian being
spoken so they had nothing to worry about!
School kept us busy in the mornings but we fully embraced
the long leisurely lunch that seemed a requirement among the
end of the season revelers we encountered around us.
Amongst the British, Italian and American tourists there
were plenty of French joining in. We met one British
family in particular whose company we all thoroughly
enjoyed. Taras and Amanda, with their daughters Lilly
(8), Ruby (5) and their son Henry (3), were vacationing at a
nearby hotel for the week. Of course Cassie and
Juliana made the introductions when they started playing
with Lilly and Ruby on the beach. We had discovered
this wonderful restaurant, Le Colombier, right on the
beach, sand between your toes as you are sitting down to
your meal. We became regulars.
On our second day there, after having experimented with
another restaurant down the beach.....
we met Taras and Amanda. Actually, Taras tried to
flag Joe down for another cappuccino, thinking he was one of
the wait staff. We all got a great chuckle out of that
one and became fast friends.
Actually, we had plenty of chores to take care of in the
meantime. Joe was off doing the laundry while I
diligently watched over the safety of the kids in the
sunshine on the beach. Do I have it figured out, or
what? We swapped duties when it was time for me to go
do the grocery shopping (the sun was well on its way down by
then). The next day Joe and the girls went in to meet
up with our new friends again while I got ZIA ready for our
upcoming visit with Joe's sister Juliana and her husband
Michael. By the time the sun was setting, the kids
were starting to think of food again so we moved the party
to another restaurant.
The girls wound up having a sleep over at the hotel, and we
collected a couple of sleepy kids at breakfast the next
morning. They were sad to be leaving their new
friends, especially before they got a chance to see the
boat, but we had a couple hour trip to meet Mike and Jules
15 miles away in Bealieu-Sur-Mer, so we said our
good-byes and exchanged email addresses and are now trying
to figure out how to fit in a visit to Suffolk this winter!
Whenever we arrive in a new location, there is a certain
amount of guess work involved in figuring out the best
location to drop our hook. Prevailing wind and sea
direction are usually the primary concern, followed closely
by the availability of a wireless internet signal on the
boat, but this time we also wanted to be as close as
possible to La
Reserve de Beaulieu, Juliana and Mike's hotel.
Looking at our charts, and examining the shoreline through
our binoculars, we picked what looked to be the closest
location with a public access from the waterfront up to the
street. Although all the other boats were anchored
over closer to the town of Villefranche, we decided
to check out our selected spot to see if it worked for our
unique purposes. As we mounted the staircase to the
street and climbed the short hill over to the other side, we
were thrilled to see that we could not have picked a better
location. It was a straight shot and just over a half
a mile walk.
We had agreed to meet our family at their hotel at 5pm
but ran into them walking towards us along the way.
What a joyous reunion that was! The girls ran eagerly
into the waiting arms of their Aunt Juliana, who they hadn't
seen in over a year, and their Uncle Mike, who they hadn't
seen in quite a bit longer.
We had five days of high quality time together. The
weather wasn't perfect, but no one voiced a single
complaint. The hotel staff were unconditionally
welcoming and we spent many an hour by the pool, in the
sauna and steam room, and in the lobby area.
The Michelin two-star hotel restaurant was a little
pricey even for our "vacation budget" but we discovered many
wonderful restaurants in the surrounding village.
Needless to say, we have been having no problems at all
finding fantastic food here in the culinary capital of
Europe. Being so close to Italy, the brick oven pizzas
and pastas are exceptional, and of course the seafood is
superb. All the menus offer a great variety of each to
choose from, in addition to steaks, salads and soups.
I'm afraid the little progress I had made in trimming down
my waistline has been totally reversed. We will have
to return to Spain soon, or a new pair of jeans will quickly
become a necessity.
Oops! I almost forgot to mention the ice cream!
Although Uncle Mike is not 100% comfortable on a boat,
like so many people, we did spend a couple of afternoons
enjoying our newest waterfront real estate in
Villefranche. The girls enjoyed their second
sleepover at a hotel in a week. We thrilled our
visitors from New Mexico with a taco dinner onboard for our
last night together. In a bold move, Michael decided
that the best way to arrive in Nice to board their
Windstar cruise ship would be onboard ZIA. Joe and
I were thrilled to accommodate them and hoisted the anchor
for the short two mile trip on Sunday morning. Much to
the girls' delight, we were granted permission to come
onboard their fancy cruise ship for a quick tour before they
pulled away from the dock at 5pm. Although it was a
sad good-bye, it was made easier by the knowledge that we
will see each other again soon.
In the meantime, we are enjoying Nice for a couple
of nights before heading back to Villefranche where
we have a rendezvous with a friend of my mom's scheduled for
Tuesday afternoon. Mary Ann has been an enthusiastic
supporter of Zia's adventures. She just so happens to
be taking a cruise around the Med starting in
Villefranche on the 25th. Our little unexpected
detour to France is paying off in many, many ways!
Next entry
>>>>>>>
Many thanks to our friend Craig Homenko for his assistance in setting up the website.
We also would like
to thank our buddy Scott Brunner who has been kind
enough to host the website on his server.
|