We are still a little stunned at the fact that we are in
France. Honestly, we never really thought that we
would make it here this season. When we talked to
Juliana and Mike about hooking up with them, it was always
somewhere else, either in Barcelona or Mallorca or wherever
Zia happened to be. This part of the Med is quite
intimidating, with a limited number of anchorages, very
pricey marinas, and potentially nasty weather, which is why
we had not really thought of coming here months ago
when they were planning their vacation. In the end,
however, it proved easier for us to come to France than for
them to come to us, so that is exactly what we did!
St. Tropez is a fabulous little town. We just
missed Les Voiles de St-Tropez, a sailboat race full
of REALLY NICE sailboats. As we pulled into the bay,
we saw half a dozen on their way home. The flags
fluttering off the sterns were mostly British and French,
with a smattering of German and Swiss. Our cruising
guide had warned us about the crowds that can be expected
during the race, so we were happy to have missed it.
In fact, this is the best time of the year to come to
St-Tropez. Most of the tourists have gone home
and the rather small village is much more likely to enchant
the visitor without the teaming hordes. I must say, we
are quite enchanted. There isn't a ton to see in terms
of museums and such, but for soaking up the French joie
de vivre, this is the place!
Granted, it takes a small fortune to indulge yourself
completely. Everything is quite expensive in
St-Tropez. I'm sure the exchange rate of the US dollar
doesn't help. We haven't even considered doing any
shopping in the fancy boutiques that line the streets of the
town. It is enough that we are back in $5 a beer
territory, except it is actually 5 Euros a beer, which is
more like six and a half dollars. We are saving our
fancy dinners for our time with Mike and Jules. We had
a great lunch at a Creperie right in the old harbor
(where we discovered the price of beer), but otherwise have
eaten on the boat. We bought fresh merguez from
a butcher shop we wandered by on Thursday. Of course
there was a bakery just a block away. The little
corner grocery had lettuce, wine, and artichokes. What
else could you ask for? Friday, while we were watching
the games of pétanque or boule in the Place des Lices, we
came across a little store that sold rotisserie chicken,
roast potatoes and garlic. A little salad and
baguette, et voile!
The Museé de L'Annonciade, of which André Dunoyer
de Segonzac was the first curator, is a marvelous collection
of early 20th century, post-Impressionist paintings by
artists whose names even I recognize: Seurat, Signac,
Matisse, Bonnard. La Citadelle is the centuries
old fort that occupies the hill overlooking St-Tropez.
The artistic ambiance of the whole area is perpetuated by
the collection of modern art that adorns selected nooks and
crannies of the fortress grounds. Although the views
of the Golfe de Saint-Tropez are spectacular, the
unusual artwork really made the uphill hike worthwhile.
Aside from our daily jaunts into town, our mornings are
spent on school lessons and "household" chores like cleaning
things, fixing things, and meals. We haven't had any
big nights out on the town, but I'm sure we'll have a few
once we hook up with Mike and Jules next week. We are
supposed to get a little more wind over the next couple of
days. We were thinking about heading a little further
east towards Cannes, Juan Les Pins, and Nice.
Actually, our route is more northeast. I bet you can
guess which direction the wind is supposed to come from this
weekend!
Next entry
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Many thanks to our friend Craig Homenko for his assistance in setting up the website.
We also would like
to thank our buddy Scott Brunner who has been kind
enough to host the website on his server.
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