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Thursday, February 11th, 2010, Puerto
Aventuras,
Mexico
One of the best things
about this crazy lifestyle that we lead is our ability to change
plans fairly easily. Actually, it takes a little work to
keep ourselves free enough to do that: mostly through managing
visits from friends and family. So, I could also say that
it is one of the worst things about this lifestyle, because we
are always hedging our bets and hesitating to commit to one
particular path. But, like most things in life, everything
has its good side and its bad side and our job is to make sure
we are willing to take advantage of all the positive stuff and
minimalize the negative and hopefully, in the end, it all works
out for the best. So far, our latest change of plans seems
to be doing just that!
When we first pulled
into Puerto Aventuras about a month ago, it was an unplanned
stop. Despite our initial distaste for the overwhelmingly
gringo tourist vibe here, we kept finding reasons to like it.
The number one reason is the wonderful, completely safe, cheap
marina. One of the first things Gerardo, the marina
manager, mentioned after we recovered from the pleasant shock of
the price, was the excellent bi-lingual school here.
Colegio Puerto Aventuras has 250 students, about 60% Mexican and
the rest a mix of American, Canadian, French, German and others.
Tied up to the dock, we kept meeting "locals," Americans,
Canadians and British who have vacation homes here, who, seeing
our kids, also raved about the school. We went by to check
it out over the weekend and then again on Monday to talk
to them. Although a private school, the fees are
exceedingly reasonable by American standards, less than $5,000 a
year per child. The kids took the entrance exam just for
the heck of it. They were worried because they couldn't do
the Spanish part of the exam at all. Both girls excelled
on the English portion, however, and when we met with the
principles of the primary school and secondary school, they both
welcomed the prospect of having the kids there.
Obviously, we had been
thinking about alternatives to the Ecuador plan already.
Once we got to Mexico, we realized how much it meant to us to be
able swim in the beautiful crystal clear waters of the
Caribbean. Our intended port in Ecuador, Bahia de Caraquez,
is at the mouth of the Rio Chone river. The water is murky
and not healthy for swimming. When we started looking at
the pluses and minuses, it was clear that Mexico had many more
pluses in its favor. Chief among them was the enthusiasm
of our kids. I had been on the internet searching for
school options here already and not finding anything that would
accommodate our boat as well as our kids. Then we stumbled
in here. With both the boat and the school issues
resolved, it didn't take much for us to decide to stay and try
it out.
One big point on the
plus side of staying in the Yucatan, is the fact that it is easy
and cheap to reach from the US. This could not have been
any better illustrated than when Lisa, Alison, and Holly
arranged an impromptu visit. Some of our closest friends
in Annapolis got together just after the New Year. While
the men started talking about some ridiculous trip to the Outer
Banks this spring for wind sports, the ladies decided to even
the score with a visit to Zia in the Yucatan. At that
point we were still planning to head south, but were more than
willing to wait until after their visit. We started
talking about the trip on January 8th and by the 11th tickets
were purchased for the 29th. Wahoo! Who could ask
for better friends than that? The girls were over the
moon. They have both considered Holly their best friend
since before we left cruising. She is a constant source of
joy in their lives and a visit on such short notice was almost
more than they could handle, especially falling just four days
after a visit from Gran and Gramps. This was the kind of
energy we needed on Zia!
In retrospect, it seems
our venture back to Annapolis last summer might not have been
the best choice for our cruising plans. Although it was
wonderful to have so much time to visit with friends and family,
when it came time to leave - again - life with the kids became
very difficult. Home-schooling was torture. The
girls would burst into tears at the slightest provocation.
Everyone was moody and tense. We had our good days and our
bad days, naturally, but clearly no one was very excited about
our future plans. The kids were especially reluctant to
think of Ecuador as a good alternative to being back home.
I felt too much like the autocrat, imposing my will on the rest
of the crew.
Back to basics.
Our goal has always been for the girls to be bi-lingual.
When they were infants, we had a wonderful nanny, Andrea, from
Chile, who was with us for four and a half years and only spoke
to them in Spanish. Although our stint in school in
Barcelona didn't exactly work out as planned, it was also
conceived with the bi-lingual goal in mind. When it came
time to sail back to this side of the Atlantic, we agreed that a
year of full immersion in a Spanish speaking school would be
worth whatever sacrifice it required of us to give our girls the
gift of fluency in another language. We just needed to
find someplace safe and comfortable for us on the boat.
The climate in Ecuador is perfect and it is relatively safe and
comfortable, so we stopped looking. It became the plan.
Luckily, Cassie and I had gone down to check it out so we knew
exactly what to expect. If we hadn't, I'm not sure we
would have been so willing to abandon our plan for a better
option. We wouldn't have known which was really the better
option.
So, here we
are in Puerto Aventuras. The girls have completed their
first full week at school. It is amazing to see how well
they both adjust to a new environment. It's a little
easier for Juliana, at ten. Mr. Alberto, the principle of
the primary school, told us when we picked her up after her
first day last Thursday, "It seems as if Juliana was born here.
She was surrounded by children from the minute she arrived to
the minute the day was over. She is doing wonderfully."
Everything is more
difficult at twelve, but after her first three or four days,
Cassie realized that she would actually make friends with the
other students in her class. Because of the way the
Mexican educational system is organized, both she and Juliana
are the youngest in their classes. Cassie was sure that
this was going to be a problem. I talked to her Spanish
tutor who agreed that this was a tough age for making friends
among the girls, but who also assured me that she would keep an
eye out for Cassie. How wonderful to receive that kind of
attention in Middle School! She comes home every day with
a huge smile on her face and a glowing report. Certainly
there will be issues, but, at least for today, it seems it will all work out for the
best.
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