Monday, November 23rd, 2009, West Palm Beach,
Florida
It's been a busy period
for us. We spent another couple of wonderful days with
Adam, Zanell and Pieter in the greater Orlando area, and then Cassie and I took off for our
reconnaissance mission to Ecuador. Joe
and Juliana kept themselves plenty busy while we were gone, with a little local
help. We continue to benefit from having wonderful friends
greet us at our new anchorages, and from meeting new friends as
we travel.
In Port Canaveral, on a
rare evening that we didn't spend with Adam, Zanell and Pieter,
we went to a local pizza joint called Kelsey's. We got to
talking to our friendly waiter, Josh, and discovered that he was
also a kiteboarder. We swapped contact info in the hopes
of joining him for a day of kiting. The next thing we
knew, we had an invite for lunch. He made us an amazing
swordfish meal. Conversation was easy and we found we had
plenty in common. Josh has traveled for most of his life.
His parents, German and Belgian, are missionaries in Senegal.
His wife is French. They wound up in Florida a few years
ago. Their kids, two young boys, had never been on a boat
before so we invited them all out to Zia after lunch. What
a wonderful and surprising afternoon! We are so lucky to
find ourselves so often the beneficiaries of others' generosity
and their curiosity about our lifestyle.
For another special
treat, Adam, Zanell and Pieter planned a trip to Universal
Studios in Orlando on Friday. We worked extra hard on
school so we could take the day off to join them. Cassie
turned out to be a total roller coaster freak whereas Juliana
opted for the less intense rides. It worked out perfectly
as Adam and Zanell weren't as keen on the wild thrill rides
either. We spent a full day playing from the opening of
the park to the bitter end, finishing up with a fun meal at
Jimmy Buffet's on-site restaurant, Margarita Ville.
With the generous loan
of Zanell's hot red Audi, we came up with a plan to get Cassie
and me to the airport, a three and a half hour drive away, for
our flight to Ecuador. All four of us piled into the car
for the long schlep. Joe and Juliana made arrangements to
stop in West Palm Beach and spend the night with Gregg and
Rebecca. Gregg had volunteered to bring the boat south
with Joe in my absence. Juliana elected to hang with
Rebecca instead of participating in the night passage.
Unfortunately, the timing could have been better since there was
a space shuttle launch scheduled for Monday afternoon, a day
after they left the area. Oh well, better to have the help
on the passage and catch the launch on TV.
Ecuador! Two
nights in Quito weren't nearly enough, but the point of the trip
was to investigate Bahía de Caráquez, so we planned to spend the
majority of our free time there. We had one full day in
Quito where we had arranged to meet the cousin of a friend who
has lived in Ecuador with her family for eleven years. Lidia and Alex were tremendously generous with
their time, taking us out to dinner and introducing us to a
group of their friends. We met an Italian family who runs
a spectacular restaurant in the hills of Quito, an Iranian guy
who is partnering with Alex in one of his business endeavors,
and an American family, connected to the US Embassy, who has
been living in Quito for four years. Although there were
some complaints about the crime in the city and the current
socialist president, everyone had lots of good things to say
about living there. The fact that they are all there by
choice speaks well for the quality of life we can expect.
One of the negatives
about Ecuador is the road system. Although Bahia is only
340 kilometers from Quito, it is a long and treacherous drive on
pothole ridden roads. We opted to fly a national airline
to Manta, and then cab it the 120K up to Bahia - also on
treacherous pothole ridden roads! They are working on vast
stretches of the road between the two cities, but it was pretty
slow going most of the way. An hour and twenty minutes
later we arrived at our wonderful
Casa Ceibo
hotel in Bahia. Although a little outside of town ($1.50
cab ride), and by far the most expensive hotel in the city at
$150 a night, breakfast included, it was well worth it. It
was really important to me that Cassie have a good experience
and as superficial as it is, the hotel played a big role in her
impression of our time there. I'm shameless, I know.
After an afternoon of
decadence on Monday, we made our way into town on Tuesday to
check out Puerto
Amistad.
We had already met one cruiser, Phil, on the
plane ride from Quito to Manta. He had put me in touch
with Kim and Pierre who have two ten year old boys who have been
attending a parochial school in town for the last seven months.
As our luck would have it, they happened to be sitting in the
restaurant area as we walked into the facility. Kim and I
immediately hit it off. She is a wealth of information
about Bahia, schools and living aboard there. I asked to
go along when she went to pick up her boys at the parochial
school in town. We hopped onto a "triciclo" and were
peddled a dozen blocks through town to the school's entrance.
Some of the classes were out playing basketball
in the courtyard.
Kim's boys Patrick and Thomas were busy running
around the buildings being chased by a dozen kids. The
school is located right next to the Pacific Ocean and some of
the classrooms have a wonderful view and refreshing breeze
blowing through them. Of course there is no heat or air
conditioning. The classrooms are very simple and the
facilities basic. There are about 250 Ecuadorian students
and two foreigners. I talked to one of the administrators
who expressed delight at the prospect of having two more foreign
students enroll in the school next year.
The school I had been
in touch with prior to our visit,
Unidad Educativa
Interamericano, is located a little ways out of town.
Actually, it turned out to be walking distance from Casa Ceibo.
We had an appointment to visit on Wednesday. The facility
was a little nicer and the teachers and the children certainly
speak better English there. The cost, while still quite
low at about $150 a month per kid, is about twice as much as the
parochial school. From what I heard from the other
cruisers, the kids of the wealthy families in town tend to go to
Interamericano whereas the more average families send their kids
to the parochial school. Of course, the public schools are
totally free so all the students that attend private schools are
of above average means in this poor country. At any rate,
either school would be perfect for our purposes. Cassie
was a little disappointed that neither school offered the
feeling of being in Middle School in the States, rotating
classrooms depending on the subject. I'm glad that she
came along and knows exactly what to expect now. She says
she doesn't really care which school they go to although the
uniform at Interamericano (jeans and a polo shirt) is more
desirable than the skirt and blouse at the other. We'll
reserve our final decision until we get back in March.
During the rest of our
stay in Bahia, we visited the local Galapagos turtle, Miguelito.
We climbed to the top of the cross that
overlooks the town for some great photos.
We hung out and talked to as many cruisers as we
could, learning about all the things to see and do while in
Bahia. There's a wonderful surfing beach just a short trip
away in Canoa. Up the river just past Casa Ceibo, there is
another tourist facility,
Saiananda, which is currently also a marina.
Unfortunately, the construction of the bridge
between San Vicente and Bahia is going to kill off that
business for Alfredo. He is building some new rooms and
marketing vacation packages at his wildlife
sanctuary/restaurant/hotel. Although there is not a lot of
cultural activity in Bahia, I was assured by all that there is
plenty to do. Knowing how busy life can be just by virtue
of living on a boat, I'm not too worried about boredom.
So, the verdict is a
definite thumbs up. It is going to be a phenomenal
cultural and linguistic experience for all of us. We'll
have some challenges getting our visa paperwork together so we
can stay longer than the standard ninety days, but at least we
are getting a head start on that. We are also thrilled to
hear that one can live quite comfortably in Ecuador for $1000 a
month. After Europe and the Caribbean, this is going to be
a huge benefit. We might just be able to get away with
this for another couple of years!
It was great to come
back home to Zia in her new, prime location anchored off the
piers in downtown West Palm Beach. I think I spent more in
two hours at the farmers' market on Saturday morning than I did
our whole time in Ecuador, lodging expenses excluded! It
was quite the contrast.
Of course, our friends Gregg,
who has done three passages on Zia to date, and his wife Rebecca
had been entertaining Joe and Juliana in style; showing them
their favorite restaurants, the library, and even inviting them
to a local political event. Juliana couldn't get over the
library - all those books absolutely free! She checked out
eight of them and read them all in a week.
After reading my last
update, the operator of the WPB Tow Boat US franchise,
Chris, emailed us. He has been following us on zialater for a
few years. He was thrilled to hear we were heading his way
and offered up any assistance we might need. He and his
wife, Rimi, and their two daughters (4 and 6) are hoping to take
off one day to cruise themselves. I can't tell you how
much I love to hear from people who follow along with our
website. It makes me feel like I'm not just talking to
myself out here!
As an added bonus, on
the evening I got back home, I had an email from Julie.
She works in downtown WPB and had seen Zia anchored out in Lake
Worth on her lunch break. She googled us up (sorry Alison
and Francois!)
and sent me an email.
So, we have Gregg and
Rebecca, Chris, Rimi, Kiki and Mia, and Julie. Throw in
the four of us and do you know what that makes? That's
right: a taco party! Turns out our local guests even had
mutual friends. What a fun evening.
West Palm Beach was a
fun stop for our social lives but it was hell on the wallet.
Joe rented a car for four days so he could drive around to the
chandleries and hardware stores. We went shopping for
bathing suits for the girls and wound up with tennis rackets,
down duvets, shorts and swimming suits for me and Joe, a new
frying pan, and several other items that were not on our list.
We never did find any bathing suits for the girls. Turns
out even Florida takes them off the shelves in the "winter"
time.
We are looking forward
to sharing our Thanksgiving feast with some friends from the
EMYR rally we participated in over the spring of 2008. Our
very best wishes to all of you for a wonderful holiday. We
have so much for which to be thankful.