Back in the early days of Joe and
Christy’s sailing adventure, Lisa, myself and our 3 sons
Jake, Eddie and Max spent a week aboard Zia sailing Cape
Cod and Nantucket Island (see
August 10th 2005 entry). We had a
fantastic time and not so fantastic weather, and we
vowed then that we would meet in the Mediterranean sea,
sometime, somewhere, and get some REAL sunshine. That
“sometime” was last week, and that “somewhere” turned
out to be the beautiful Dalmatian Coast of Croatia.
With now a 6th addition
to the Dunoyer crew (Francesca, age 19 months), we all
agreed that staying aboard Zia might prove a little
tight, so we decided to seek out an option where we
could stay on land but have Zia moored within spitting
distance. Lisa spent a good part of last winter
scanning the Internet for a solution that could work and
we finally zeroed in on renting waterfront Palm Tree
Villa, located on Ciovo Island, just outside the town of
Trogir. We planned on having my brother-in-law Chris
Pratt, his wife Sue and two daughters Olive and Ruby
also stay with us at the villa for the week. As far as
we could tell from the Internet pictures and maps, there
was a very good possibility Zia could anchor directly in
front of us.
We knew we had hit target almost as
soon as we collected our luggage from our flight into
Croatia: the owner of the villa who came to pick us up
at the airport said “we’ve spotted your friends, on the
big boat, with the two girls and a cat, right in front
of the house”. As we drove up to the house we could not
believe the thrill of having actually realized that
vision, begun back in rainy Nantucket Harbor two years
ago.
The first couple days are spent
planning out exactly how we want to tackle going on day
cruises with 14 people on board, including four Dunoyer
kids (ages 12, 11, 7, 1) and two Pratt girls ages 3 and
2 . By Day 3 (Monday) we’re setting off on a first easy
sail to see how everyone fares, heading for the tip of
Ciovo island. Everyone loves it! With Zia anchored in
a remote cove, kids go swimming, snorkeling and
exploring. Parents sit down to a scrumptious lunch,
while baby Francesca conveniently has a 2-hour nap in
Joe and Christy’s cabin!
With such a successful experience
we decide to set out on Day 5 (Wednesday) for a more
ambitious sail to another set of islands. At the end of
our short sail Monday, the windless motor which raises
the anchor had started acting up, and now as we embark
on the bigger sail, it has stopped working altogether;
Chris, Christy and I lift the anchor out of the water by
hand (that was kind of fun!). Out on the water, the
weather is gorgeous and a nice breeze kicks up. Enough
to blow Chris’ hat into the sea, followed a few minutes
later by the precious net bag full of lettuce. On each
occasion, Christy lets out a loud “man overboard
drill!”, Joe turns Zia around, all hands on deck and
soon the lost cargo is back on board again. We end up
anchoring in between 2 small islands, where the water
has that dazzling turquoise color. Once again,
snorkeling, exploring, food and wine, not necessarily in
that order.
As we bask in the late afternoon
Mediterranean sun during the sail home, and I just can’t
believe my good fortune in simply being here, on this
beautiful water, with such wonderful people.
The next day, Joe kindly takes a
break from working on fixing the windless and agrees to
take the kids water skiing off the dinghy. For this you
need a driver (Joe) and someone holding the rope (me).
Cassie is a pro, but our sons are more used to skiing
behind bigger boats. It takes a few tries to get it
right, including one start where 11-year old Eddie
finally makes it out of the water only to have his Dad
get dunked right into the sea by the pull of the rope
(all the spectators REALLY liked that one). Everyone
ends up getting some good runs, including 7-year-old Max
who is up on skis for the first time in his life.
We decide we can’t leave this area
without a proper visit to Trogir, a beautiful historic
town and harbor founded by the Romans and ruled by the
Venetians until the 19th century. On an
earlier car trip into town, Joe had located a perfect
anchoring spot just outside the walls of the city, so we
all go aboard Zia, and head into Trogir for a late
afternoon stroll and an early dinner. The streets are
narrow and the architecture beautiful. We’re delighted
to be taking in some of that old Europe, and more eager
still to sit down for some of that terrific
Mediterranean style pizza which we’ve been sampling
throughout the week. We find a perfect restaurant,
sitting outdoors right on the harbor and at the foot of
a massive medieval dungeon. The food is terrific and
the staff friendly and wonderful. They are especially
attentive when Francesca and I unexpectedly sample the
waters of Trogir harbor…
The end of the week comes far too
soon as we make the best of the last remaining hours of
our precious time together, outside a villa, on the
Mediterranean, with Zia anchored out back.
We dreamt it up, we made it happen,
what a magical week. Thanks so much, Joe and Christy,
we’re lucky to know you.