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Tuesday, October 3rd, Mallorca, Spain
In the 10 days since
our last update, we have been mostly in Barcelona, then
sailing overnight on Friday to Mallorca for a bit more
cruising before holing up for the winter. We have
decided on a marina in Barcelona, actually just outside
the city in Badalona, where we can keep the boat in the
water. Although it is a far cry from the centrally
located Marina Port Vell, it is within walking distance,
on a sunny day, of public transportation into the city.
Despite all appeals to the marina office at Port Vell,
where we would really like to be for the five month
period, they continued to laugh at the thought of
actually finding us a place there for more than a few
days at a time. In a last ditch effort, I told
Maria, "Email us if a spot opens up for us for the
winter months." Maria smirked at me and counseled
us to buy a monohull.
We arrived in Barcelona
after a 24 hour trip from Valencia. We had a
little more breeze than predicted and actually got a bit
of nice sailing in along the way, but the wind had shut
off and the rain turned on by the time we neared the
city. Aside from the downpour, we had a little
additional adversity to deal with on our approach to the
marina. When I woke up to relieve Joe from his
night watch duties at 1am, he informed me that the
starboard engine was not shifting out of gear. The
prospect of maneuvering into a "Med moor" style slip,
with our stern backed up against the dock and fixed
lines tied off to our bows, with only one engine was a
little worrisome to say the least. Joe had dealt
with a throttle cable issue already in Gibraltar, so he
decided to tackle the shift cable problem in the
daylight when he got up. A bloody knuckle or
two and a few curses later, we had full use of both engines.
We notified the dockmaster of a potential problem
nonetheless, just in case his quick fix gave up the
ghost at the crucial moment. Luckily, it all
worked perfectly and we were thrilled despite the rain,
to be in Barcelona.
We had arrived during
the Fiesta de la Mercé, the week long celebration of the
patron saint of Barcelona. Parades, fireworks,
carnivals and music were just a few of the attractions
that marked the occasion. The girls were thrilled
to see a fair with all sorts of rides and attractions
set up right outside the marina. As if the sights
of the city were not enough to entice us, this sent us
over the top. It proved a great incentive to get
Cassie and Juliana to do what we wanted them to do; "I
guess you don't really want to go on any rides today?"
This was especially
useful as we continued getting back into the swing of
home schooling. Despite any success we might have
in checking the girls into a local Spanish speaking
school, we needed to get started on school nonetheless,
since we don't plan on settling in anywhere until
November. It has been much easier to get into the
rhythm this year, having figured out a few tricks to
make it easier during our first year of home schooling
last year. We stuck to the division of labor that
worked for us last year, with me teaching Cassie, 5th
grade this year, and Joe administering third grade
lessons to Juliana. So far, I am pleased to say it
has been a relatively painless process. I actually
welcome the reintroduction of a bit of routine into our
days.
Between school, boat
chores, exploring a little of Barcelona, and hunting for a place for
the winter, we stayed pretty busy. I was able to
do all of our laundry in our little machine in the bow
locker, as the sun came out to dry each load reliably
every day after our wet arrival in the city. Joe
worked on the gear shift cable some more and did oil
changes to both engines. I'm thrilled to report
the flawless operation of all systems, thanks to our
handy onboard mechanic! It sure is nice not to
have to spend money to hire someone else to fix little
problems.
After our first day of
walking around the city, dragging the girls kicking and
screaming, we were a little discouraged at our prospects
of enjoyable sightseeing. Thanks to the brilliant
suggestion of a friend, we embarked on a mission to
solve the problem. Have you heard of Heelys?
They are tennis shoes with wheels in the heels.
Our first challenge was to find them in Barcelona.
Thanks to a sporadic internet connection, we were at
least able to find the one store that carries them.
We had to go to two different locations to find them in
the sizes we needed, but a few hours later we were
"heeling" our way down the streets of Barcelona.
There is a bit of a learning curve, but a couple of sore
arms (mom and dad's) and a few butt plants later, we had
figured it out enough so that it was more fun for
everyone than just walking around. The girls drew
quite a few stares as they rolled their way along the
sidewalks of the city. In the whole process we
managed to tour some fantastic little neighborhoods off
Las Ramblas and get a glimpse of other areas on the cab
ride to the other store. We still haven't toured
the city properly, but we will have lots of time for
that over the winter!
Once we settled on the
marina in Badalona, we made a beeline for Mallorca,
where our friends Georg and Nathalie live with their
daughter Anthonia. We met them on their Catana 472
"Legaris" in St. Martin last
February. We cruised the Bahamas with them for
a few weeks in March and have stayed in touch along the
way. They left their boat in Trinidad for the
winter to come back to work before heading to the South
Pacific this March.
We followed their
suggestion and arrived at Cala Mondragó Saturday
afternoon, in time for a party they were having at their
weekend country house. It was an international
crowd of Germans, Swedes, Canadians and British ex-pats
who all live here in Mallorca. We were embarrassed
to make everyone speak English, but they all did very
well. Actually, most of the kids go to British
schools so it isn't actually so unusual for English to
be the default language.
Mallorca is absolutely
beautiful. The water is clear and clean and warm,
and the coastline interesting. We spent three
nights at the beautiful but crowded little anchorage of
Cala Mondragó, a y-shaped cove carved out of the
rocky coastline of southeast Mallorca. It is in
the middle of a national park, with only a few little
hotels but a popular beach with a good restaurant.
We gorged ourselves on the best Pimientos de Padron
(little green peppers, grilled in olive oil and sea
salt) we have yet to taste in Spain. The peppers
are mostly mild, but you never know when you will get a
hot one. The batches we got here had the highest
ratio of hot ones we have seen so far. About a
third of them packed a decent punch and one or two of
those really knocked your socks off.
We are heading for
Palma now, hoping to finalize our arrangements for the
winter. We need to secure our reservation with a
bank transfer so it isn't over until that is
accomplished. We caught a nice little tuna today,
just in time for lunch, and a couple of Dorado since we
have been in the Med. We have gotten many more
strikes but they somehow manage to throw the hook, but
I'm not complaining. The only problem today was
that I couldn't find my wasabi and it was too rough to
mount a proper search so I had to do without for this
meal.
Next entry
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Many thanks to our
friend Craig Homenko for his assistance in setting up
the website.
We also would like
to thank our buddy Scott Brunner who has been kind
enough to host the website on his server.
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