Monday, February 13th - Bitter End, Virgin Gorda, BVI

       

We are back at one of our many favorite spots in the Virgin Islands, the Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda.  We have enjoyed hearing the stories about the snow that our friends back home on the East Coast enjoyed over the weekend.  Although I miss the fun of skiing, sledding, snow angels, snow ball fights, and warming up by the fire afterwards,  I am not sorry to have missed the shoveling and power outages!  I'm sure the kids are happy to have a snow day, although I'm not sure all of the parents feel the same way! 
 
Making our way out of Nanny Cay on Thursday afternoon we had a wonderful feeling of liberation.  Despite the relatively plush surroundings we enjoyed there, being "on the hard"  is no fun.  Any advantage there is to living on a boat (and some might argue that there aren't any) disappear once you take the water away.  Most of the systems onboard cease to function and you are forced to devise a work-around to deal with most daily chores.  The seawater heads are just one example.  Although we have holding tanks for the heads, all of our other "gray water" is disposed of over the side.  When you are twenty feet over the ground with workers scrambling around beneath you, it is not advisable to be dumping dirty water on their heads.  The fridge and freezer both use a heat exchange system that is connected to a big metal plate in the keel.  The refrigerant is cooled by the seawater and then goes back up to the compressor.  We managed to eat most of the food from the freezer, only throwing away a few items that had probably been there for too long anyway.  A big block of ice in the fridge did a good job of keeping the rest of it cold, as long as we didn't go in and out of it too often.  Aside from these various logistical issues, the lack of privacy was also taxing.  At least the rainy weather kept the bugs away.  It certainly could have been worse, but we were nonetheless thrilled to be back afloat.
 
We called up Cenou and Jaimie on the VHF radio and they were both at Deadman's Bay on Peter Island.  We arrived in time for the girls to get a water ski ride on the back of Johnny Martin's 25 horsepower dinghy. 
Everyone was off in different directions the next day, Cenou to provision in Roadtown, and Jaimie to provision and pick up a guest at the airport in Trellis Bay.  We all agreed to meet again on Saturday at the Bitter End. 
 
Our replacement computer had arrived via FedEx (thank you Tammi!) at the marina office just before we splashed.  After school on Friday, Joe spent the rest of the day getting all our programs back up and running on our new system.  It is a Fujitsu Lifebook and the screen is really awesome.  They use a technology called "Clearview" and the colors are spectacular.  You can also see the screen from many different angles, which makes it much better than our previous laptop.  While Joe was engrossed with getting it all set up, the kids and I decided to take the kayak into the beach and hang there for the afternoon.  It is amazing how they can entertain themselves without fighting or complaining for hours and hours on a beach. A little sand, a few rocks, warm water, and warm weather are their only requirements.  Me, I am happy with a good book. 
 
Dinner was getting to be a bit of a challenge since emptying the freezer for our haul-out, so we made the trek to Roadtown to provision on Saturday after school.  We were also excited to find a hair salon while we were there.  Both of the girls had finally agreed to get their hair cut!  There was a price, however, for their cooperation on this issue.  We had been working on them steadily since we were in Guadeloupe, trying to convince them how much easier it would be to keep their hair looking nice if it were shorter.  Brushing it is a chore that mostly falls to me, and it can be truly horrendous.  Cassie's hair is especially knotty, although after a good day at the beach, Juliana's is no picnic either.  We had offered them each twenty-five Euros if they cut it in Guadeloupe and were amazed that even the prospect of cash would not persuade them.  You won't believe what it cost us in the end.
 
Shortly before dinner on Friday night I realized that the boat was awfully quiet.  Where were the kids?  I checked down below and they weren't in their cabins.  I couldn't hear them on the bow, but I walked up to investigate.  Where else could they be, after all?  I noticed the light in the port bow locker was on.  They had discovered this spot a while ago and quickly adopted it as their occasional playroom.  I opened up the hatch to see what kind of mess they were making and was pleasantly surprised.  Cassie had put one of our adjustable back boat chairs (we call them yahoos, but that's another story) on top of the fenders and was sitting talking very seriously to Juliana, who was in another yahoo in the corner.  "We are having a meeting," she informed me.  Some sort of secret club had been formed between them and their friend Holly back in Annapolis.  They have done a very good job of keeping the details to themselves so I can't say much about it, other than that they all take it very seriously. 
"Hey mom," Cassie began, "can I buy the bow locker from you for $75?"
"Why would you want to buy the bow locker, Cassie?"
"So we could use if for our meetings.  Can we paint it?"
We were quickly getting way outside any territory where I could unilaterally make decisions.  "You'll have to talk to your dad about it," I told her, laughing at the idea. 
Dinner was soon on the table and it wasn't long before the subject of the bow locker was broached with Joe.  Much to my amazement, after a ten minute contemplation, he agreed to sell them the bow locker on one condition; they both had to get haircuts. 
 
The decision didn't come easy.  They both thought about it for a few hours, hemming and hawing.  Finally, Cassie came to us to say we had a deal.  Juliana's status was unclear, but we moved forward with the negotiations with Cassie.
"We get to keep all of our stuff in there still," Joe stated.
"Yeah, sure."
"And we can go in there whenever we want."
"We'll make sure we have our meetings when you don't need to use any of the stuff in there so you don't interrupt them.  That's fine.  But I want to paint it."
Joe raised his eyebrows and asked, "What color?"
The color scheme has not been officially worked out, but the concept of painting the bow locker has been agreed upon and the deal sealed with a couple of very cute haircuts.  Hallelujah. 
 
Through our friendship with John and Po Martin, we have been enjoying many perks here at the Bitter End.  They have spent lots of time here and have lots of friends.  We were invited over for dinner on Jaimie on Saturday night when we arrived, and after it was all cleaned up and the kids were watching the free movie that the resort puts on every night, Johnny informed us that we were going for a Hobie Cat ride.  "You've got to be kidding.  What do we do with the kids?"  Rike had volunteered to stay back with them, and John's mom and his office manager, Delores, were both here, so he assured us they would be well looked after.  We ran out to the boat to change into clothes that might even keep us warm when wet, grabbed a few beers, and hopped onboard.  The moon was nearly full and the breeze was blowing a steady 12 knots.  It was a spectacular night, wet and wild, with five adults on a boat designed for two.  There was a group of about ten Hobies that went out, "racing" upwind past Saba Rock towards the reef.  We all had lifejackets on, and managed to make it despite the seriously overloaded boat.  I kept waiting for the moment of impact when we hit the reef, but it never came.  John and Po have a ton of experience out on the water and Po kept a close eye on things, urging John to tack over whenever she thought we were getting too close.  The water soaked us from head to toe, but it was wonderfully warm.  There was a great gathering at the beach once we finally got there, but we couldn't stay and hang out with the rest of the crowd as the hour was growing very late.  When we finally got the kids to bed it was after 11pm.  I reminded Joe that we used to do this all the time on weekends back home, going over the a friends house and staying out late with the kids.  We have not done that much at all since moving onto the boat so my guilt was light.  Besides, it was worth it for the rush of being out on the water on such a beautiful night.  It makes me think that I need to do that more often! 
 
Alas, we really do have to get moving.  We have to be in Georgetown, Bahamas, some 760 miles away, by March 2nd.  The current plan is to sail straight to the Turks and Caicos islands, about 460 miles away.  We will spend a little while exploring there while keeping an eye out for a weather window to make the rest of the trip.  It is a little early in the season to be heading up that way, but Bruce, Alison, Sam, Kari and Holly are meeting us and we wouldn't miss that for the world!  It is looking like we might have a good window starting on Thursday so we will be watching closely and preparing for a few days under sail.  I'm hoping we have luck with the fishing on the trip so I can replenish our freezer!  I only wish Joe and the girls were more enthusiastic when I cooked it.  I am going to keep trying though, as I am sure I can find a recipe that they will get excited about. 
 
Happy Valentine's Day. 
 
Love,
Christy, Joe, Cassie, and Juliana
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