September 12th, Niantic, Connecticut

       

We started out the day headed for the Thimble Islands.  A few hours of beating directly into 25 knots of  wind with a double reef in the main, we decided to head in to the Niantic.  After FOUR attempts at anchoring in a hard sandy bottom, we are securely set on our hook in the lovely Niantic River - billionaires only please - very swanky homes on the water.   Our humble little catamaran fits right in though, floating serenely amongst the mansions.  Hurricane Olphelia is swirling off the Carolina coasts, and we have our eye on it.  So far, the forecasts are warning of possible Tropical Storm conditions on Thursday night.   We'll be watching the forecasts for any impact it might have on our plans.
 
We have been hanging out in Mystic, Connecticut for the last four days.  We arrived on Thursday night, in the dark.  Heading out of Cuttyhunk, we were beating into a headwind, making our short 50 mile trip a much longer and more uncomfortable journey.  Luckily, the wind came around a little and after the first two tacks, we found ourselves heading straight for the entrance to the Mystic River cranking along at 9 to 10 knots.  Our friends on Cenou were headed for Block Island, hoping to make a beeline for Annapolis from there.  You know, whenever there are two boats on the water sailing in the same direction, you are racing.    I am happy to report that we were very closely matched.  We sailed along together for a while, until a shift in the wind direction allowed us to fall off and make better time towards our destination.  Cenou stayed hard on the wind, sailing as tight as possible.  We look forward to reuniting with them in Annapolis, where we both plan on hanging out for a while.  The good news is that when we sail together for a few days at a time, we will stay close to each other since our boats are so similar.
 
Mystic, after the exciting arrival through the winding narrow channel in the dark, was a real treat.  The Mystic Seaport Museum is where we docked the boat.  Although it was a bit pricey, it was well worth it for us and the kids.  The facility is set up like Williamsburg, Virginia.  It is a mid-nineteenth century seaport.  There are several old tall ships open for touring, an authentic period grocery store, drug store, print shop, bank, tavern, chandlery, all with tons of information about how they operated and what they sold in the mid 1800's. 
We went to the Seamen's Friend Society where we interacted with a period actor who told us about a woman's life back in those days.  The girls had a bit of a hard time understanding that she was pretending that it was really that time in history.  Actually, Joe had a little trouble with that as well.  He was asking about her dress, and how long it took to put on, and whether or not she was wearing a corset.  It was quite inappropriate for a 19th century woman to be talking about her undergarments to a man, but Joe was nonplused. 
 
Since weekends don't mean that much to us anymore, we had school on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.  The girls continue to do well with it.  Saturday was also chore day.  Joe took the laundry down to the machines at the marina while Cassie and I started school.  Juliana tends to sleep a little longer when she is able.  I started her on her math lesson when she woke up (10:30 - gotta love it!) while we waited for Joe to get back.  Then, Cassie and I took advantage of the nearby (well, it was actually over a mile to walk) grocery store to re-provision.  We brought our folding dolly and a couple of bins to load boxes and bottles into.  It all went very well, although we did elicit a lot of stares and comments.  We have found that a three hour grocery trip is not a big deal as our schedule is a lot more lenient than it used to be. 
 
A Taste of Mystic was scheduled in town for the weekend.  We did find, after school, showers, and a mid-day meal, that we did not have a whole lot of time for exploring.  We hit many of the museum exhibits, made it into town for the culinary festival one afternoon, and hooked up with an old Boyle family friend, Ned Macomb, for dinner one night.  It was great to see Ned, an old Cairo crony of Gerald Boyle's from the early 1960s.  He told us of a story when the Boyles were skin diving in the Red Sea.  Gerry Boyle was spear-fishing while the three boys, Mike, Matt and Joe, were floating around on a raft.  Gerry speared a fish, and then saw a couple of sharks cruising around.  He came up and yelled for the boys to head into shore.  Vivian heard him and was running along the shore yelling for the boys to come in.   No drama, the boys just paddled in and all was well.  It was amazing, since Joe remembered this very event from 1962, when he was about Cassie's age.   Ned has stayed in touch with Joe's mom, Vivian, over the years, and has been following our voyage with great curiosity and encouragement.   We plan to see more of him in New York, along with Vivian, who happens to be participating in an elder hostel in The City at the same time.
 
The Taste of Mystic culinary celebration was a little underwhelming for us, as the kids just wanted to hang out at the playground with the many other 5 to 10 year olds.  We did take a two mile dinghy ride down to Abbott's for dinner that night.  This is a typical New England Lobster Shack.  We found ourselves standing in a long line to order up dinner and drinks (no alcohol).  We picked out a spot, initially on one of the 200 or so outdoor picnic tables.  We moved indoors after the first course, as it got quite chilly.  Cassie and I shared a New England Lobster Feast, consisting of chowder, shrimp, steamed clams and mussels, and a lobster.  I was amazed watching her chew up mussels, which she has decided she likes more than clams.  She learned to like clams in Block Island this summer.  Unfortunately, Joe is not a huge fan of this style of cuisine, but we were all awarded with a spectacular sunset for the ride home. 
 
 
Bridges have been something of a theme for us in the last couple of stops.  We had to request an opening from the Mystic River Railroad Bridge in the pitch black.  It is one of those bridges that pivots on its centerline, but we couldn't quite figure out what we were looking at in the dark. 
Only after talking to the railroad bridge did we realize we needed to request an opening from the highway bridge as well.  Luckily, they were very accommodating and we made it through both, and the rest of the way to our designated dock space, biting our nails and shining bright spotlights all the way. 
 
The first few miles of the Niantik River is exactly the same as the Mystic, a narrow winding channel, but we had the benefit of daylight this time.  Again, we had both a railroad and a highway drawbridge to navigate through (the railroad one was a little scary, narrow, with a knot and a half of current with us).   We cruised past some ski boats, looking for a place to drop the hook that wouldn't interfere with their course.  After a couple of failed attempts to secure ourselves to the bottom, we finally set the anchor without a doubt about dragging.  That is where we sit as I write this.
 
The girls put on a dance show tonight.  The night is warm and bug free.  We ate tacos for dinner.  Life is good.
 
XOXO
Christy, Joe, Cassie and Juliana
 
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