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Saturday, March 21, 2009, Bitter End, Virgin Gorda, BVI

     We got what we wished for!  The wind filled in beautifully on Thursday and Friday last week, Jean's last two days with us on Zia.  We still spent a fair amount of time sitting around and waiting for squalls to blow through or the wind to pick back up after a squall, but in the end we all got in plenty of kiting.  Jean wore us out until we couldn't take any more, and then would ride himself for another couple of hours, demonstrating his jumps and gibes for us.

     Jean was a generous and patient teacher, spending most of the day on Thursday just instructing us.  It took us a little while to figure out the proper technique with the dinghy support, but we had it nailed by the end.

     Our venue offered a nice beach where we could rig and launch the kite.  We would then hop into the dinghy, with Jean flying the kite, and motor us all as far upwind as we could get.  Eustatia Sound is surrounded by reefs, the northeastern most of which marked our upwind boundary.  We'd transfer the kite to the rider through a series of  connections involving "chicken loops" and "kite leashes," all designed to assure that the rider stays attached to the kite, at least until he wants to disconnect.  We tried not to overreact as Jean talked about rigging the kite leash "suicide."  Yes, there are some dangerous aspects to this sport which are aptly reflected in the terminology. 

     We had discussed our agenda with Cassie and Juliana and they were prepared to fend for themselves.  It wasn't entirely without protest that we left them "on auto-pilot" with their school lessons, but having their friends Jaimie and Skylar on "Sky" around to play with really helped.  Moored a few hundred yards from the dock at the Bitter End Yacht Club, we told them they could go in after they finished school.  Since we had the dinghy, we splashed the kayak for them to row ashore.  When we got back from our first session on the water, we found the following note taped to the door:

They had taken to calling Jean "the Dude" because they had a hard time pronouncing his name, which is French and pronounced ZHON.  We later learned that they had shared a chicken sandwich for lunch, opting for water and saving two dollars a coke by buying them at the resort store rather than from the restaurant with their meal.  I love it!

     Many tumbles, face-fulls and wild rides later, both Joe and I managed to get some decent rides kite boarding.  Joe had an easier time of it than I did, but we both had a ball.  Jean was thrilled that his first students showed some serious progress under his tutelage.  His patient and careful manner ensured we had a clear understanding of the proper and safe techniques for kite boarding.  We were so lucky that we found the right locale for learning and that we actually got a couple of days of good wind while Jean was here.  We were sorry to see him leave on the early morning ferry to the airport on Saturday morning.

     Our enthusiasm for the sport grew quickly, spurred by our early successes and the encouragement of Jean and other friends here at the Bitter End who are also avid kiters.  We had a great opportunity to pick up some used kites from a friend back in Annapolis.  John Martin was flying back on Sunday morning so we made the deal on Saturday and he lugged two kites down with him when he returned to his boat and his family here the next day.  In the meantime, we signed up for lessons with the kite boarding instructor at the resort, Scott.  After a few more days of tutelage Joe was up and carving upwind on both sides.  I was still having some trouble with my right side, but I was up and riding pretty reliably.  We still have a long way to go, but with our own gear and lots of opportunities for practice, we are hoping to make rapid progress. 

     No sooner had we acquired our new kites from Johnny than we had to leave to meet my sister, Kimberly in St. Thomas.  Monday dawned gray and rainy, so it turned out to be the perfect day to make the 40 mile passage, clean up the boat and get ready for our next guest.  We were all excited to see Kim and she was equally thrilled to escape the Chicago winter and work. 

     Our rendezvous in downtown Charlotte Amalie went flawlessly.  After a "quick" trip to the grocery store, we escaped the noise and congestion of the city for the beauty and peace of a quiet cove on St. John's.  An afternoon of sunshine, swimming and beach put everyone in the perfect frame of mind. 

     We hatched a plan for the next day to visit Foxy's on Jost Van Dyke for lunch, and spend the afternoon and evening at Sandy Spit.  One of our favorite cruising destinations, Sandy Spit is a tiny little island with 360° of sandy beach and a half a dozen bushes and palm trees in the middle.  If you are lucky, you get the place to yourself for a few hours in the morning before charter boats start arriving. 

     After a morning swim and walk around the island and neighboring Green Cay, we set sail for the Bitter End.  We are starting to feel like this is our home away from home.  There is phenomenal snorkeling, swimming, beaches and restaurants, and we have friends here.  Glenn, who did our eastbound trans-Atlantic passage with us three years ago, is here on his new boat, "Valor."  Bob and Kathy, kiters and crew on a beautiful hundred foot Swan are also docked here.  And of course our buddies on Sky are here as well.  There is a big costume party on the dock this Saturday.  We stayed on a mooring ball on Thursday night and showed Kim around the grounds.  Last night we went through the channel past Saba Rock and anchored out in Eustatia Sound right behind the reef.  Rafted up with Sky, we had a dinner party on Zia and movie night on Sky.  We went to sleep under the bright stars and gentle Caribbean breeze.  Kim is talking about extending her visit!

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