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Tuesday, November 11th, Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
   
Nearly four days underway and 600 more miles under the keels, we arrived in Gran Canaria early Friday morning, having left Morocco as soon as the drenching rain eased up on Tuesday morning.  Most of the other cruisers in Rabat were waiting a few more days for the seas to mellow out and the winds to come around to a more northerly direction.  We were dying to get out of there.  In our nearly two week stay we must have had ten days of solid rain.  We were willing to endure light winds on the nose for part of the passage in order to flee yet another day of rain. 
 
To brighten up our last days in Morocco, we did have a couple of birthday celebrations.  Joe tries not to make too big a deal of his birthday any more,
   
but we did it up in style to celebrate Cassie's eleventh. 
   
In between, we squeezed in a Halloween celebration complete with (from left to right) a Lady Knight, a Nerd, Medusa, and a Dark Angel. 
                                       
The girls were amazingly accepting of the adverse climatological conditions and eagerly celebrated all occasions with their friends Celine and Anouk from "Cenou." 
 
The trip to Gran Canaria was largely uneventful, except for our first night watch which took us through several squalls and had us reefing the sails in the middle of the night.  The line that holds the back of the sail down at our first reef point broke a few hours after we put the reef in, so we went with the second reef for the rest of the night.  The winds really weren't that bad except for the gusts in the middle of the squalls, which hit 35 knots.  Of course, rain also accompanied these systems so it was a bit of a long night.  The next two nights were easy in comparison.  The wind and the seas came around behind us after the first 36 hours and the rest of the trip was dead downwind.  This isn't the fastest or most comfortable point of sail for Zia and it is generally better to sail a little off course but fast, than go right for the mark with the wind directly at your back.  We sailed the angles for a while, but Joe still can't stand sailing off course so we gybed over and sailed wing-on-wing for a bit as well. 
                                       
Our new screacher got a good workout and performed wonderfully.  By the beginning of our fourth night out we decided to put a couple of reefs in the main to slow the boat down so we wouldn't arrive in Las Palmas during the middle of the night.  We dropped the hook next to our friends on "Gone Native" at about seven in the morning.
 
Las Palmas is a beehive of activity with 250 boats here or scheduled to arrive over the next few weeks in anticipation of the start of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers.  The ARC provides great support and camaraderie for boats crossing from the Mediterranean to the Caribbean and it draws a big crowd every year.  We considered participating, but for numerous reasons decided not to join.  First of all, we prefer to have complete control over our departure date.  Although the rally organizers will change the departure date if the weather dictates, there is a huge amount of pressure for them to keep things on schedule.  We also liked the idea of starting off from the Cape Verde Islands, which are 900 miles further south where the trade winds are well established.  This almost guarantees a downwind crossing from the start.  The biggest benefit of the ARC is crossing in a group, with loads of other boats around to render assistance if needed.  We originally thought that we would have a group of four or five catamarans crossing together so this wasn't that big of a draw for us.  But, plans change and in the end we will just have "Following Tides" with us, another Switch 51 who we have been corresponding with for years but have yet to meet.  Lastly, considering all the above, we decided to save the $2000 it would cost to join.
 
Still, we are benefiting from the fact that Las Palmas is set up with just about anything we could want or need to get ready for the big crossing.  Although we knocked off lots of jobs in Varazze and Barcelona, it seems we keep adding them as fast as we cross them off.  There is that busted reef line to replace.  In the process, we discovered that the rollers that the reef lines run through on the back of the boom need replacement (perhaps the cause of the busted line?).  There is a list of spare parts available locally that we need to stock up on; things like fuel filters and oil for the saildrives.  We are shipping a spare part or two that we can't find locally, just in case, to our crew, Gregg, who is meeting us in Praia, on the island of Santiago in Cape Verde on November 27th. 
 
Although pretty well stocked up on provisions since my big grocery shopping trips in Barcelona, I have taken the extra time to inventory exactly what we have onboard so I can be sure that we are all very well fed during our trans-Atlantic crossing.  It is a job that I have put off since last doing it for our crossing the other way.  I was nudged along by our dear friend, Solange, from "Casulo" who sent me a message: "We are wondering how are the preparations for the crossing. Christy, please share with us (your readers on the blog) your grocery shopping. I cannot imagine what it is to plan so many meals in advance!!! J
 
Well, you asked for it!  I emptied all of our food storage areas, organized, counted, cleaned, and inventoried or threw out every single food item on the boat.  I haven't quite finished.  I still need to add the fridge and freezer items, drinks, and other household supplies.  For those who are interested, here is what I have so far.  I'll be curious to see how much I use this on a regular basis.  In truth, it isn't so important when you have grocery stores within a reasonable proximity.  On the other hand, it is great to know exactly what I have where.  I have also discovered, despite my previous fervent claims, that perhaps I still do have just a small problem when it comes to buying, or should I say over-buying, groceries.  Darn! 
 
So, we are finishing up these projects and then plan to finally meet up, in person, with Darlene and Robert on "Following Tides".  We'll do the 900 mile trip to Santiago with them as well as the Atlantic crossing.  They have crew arriving on the same flight as Gregg, so we'll be hanging around with them for the next month and a half at least.  It will be great to meet them after so many email exchanges.  Of course, our biggest worry is that their boat will be faster than ours!  It could be a very long and miserable crossing if that turns out to be true!  I can just see Joe throwing books, pots, pans, roller blades and scooters overboard as he tries to lighten up the boat in hopes of catching up to our competition.  All those well organized groceries........ :-(
 
I bet we'll catch more fish though!
 
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Many thanks to our friend Craig Homenko for his assistance in setting up the website.
We also would like to thank our buddy Scott Brunner who has been kind enough to host the website on his server.
 

 

   

 
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