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2008 EMYR Schedule

Thursday, June 5th, Haifa, Israel
by Gav and Larson
To keep with tradition, we (Larson and Gav) will be co-authoring an update (this one) to provide some perspective on our experiences while on board.  To those who might not know... this is our second time traveling in the Mediterranean with the Boyle family on their 51' mobile home.  Last May we spent a few weeks on Zia exploring two beautiful islands off the west coast of Italy, Sardegna and Corsica. To allow for our accommodation, Cassie generously gave up her room and did so once again this year--and Jules graciously shared hers with Cassie.  Thank you girls! 
 
After a quiet passage, we arrived in St. George's Marina, which stands adjacent to downtown Beirut, Lebanon's capital city, whose history dates back over 7,000 years. It is a strategic trading city that has been ruled by the Canaanites, Phoenicians, Romans, Muslims, Crusaders, Mamluks, Ottomans, Egyptians (briefly), French, and Lebanese. Initially, we were unsure whether it was a great idea to broadcast ourselves as Americans, but we were immediately relieved to see the American flag (and several others) flying just beyond the boardwalk, a welcoming sight to the Zia crew.
 
   
 
Every Sunday, St. George's Yacht Club is packed with members of the local community basking in the sun and enjoying leisurely swims in the hotel's salt-water pool. We were all very eager to check out the scene once all check-in formalities had been completed.  Until then we would just have to sit and observe.  A bunch of locals walked up and down the dock to say hello and inquire about the EMYR as well our expectations and thoughts of Beirut. All of us were struck by the beauty of the city, the friendliness of the people, and the difference between its portrayal in American popular media with our experience. 
 
After a brief discussion with Mahmoud, the hotel's security guard, Joe informed us that access to facilities was permitted and use of the pool simply required payment of a small fee, $10 a head.  We had no obligations for the evening, allowing for plenty of time to enjoy a late afternoon swim followed by a long, much needed shower.  We have developed a great appreciation for seemingly endless, running water available at most ports.  Efficient use of water onboard is a must and surprisingly difficult to achieve-- we're getting better though!
 
We have been enjoying Christy's cooking on nights without scheduled dinners, but it being our first night in Beirut, we opted to mix it up. The Gone Native and Emerald Lady crews joined our expedition in search of downtown Beirut. We stumbled upon the vibrant streets of Beirut in just ten minutes. Couples walked hand in hand, youngsters ran circles around their parents, and of course, soldiers wielded heavy machinery at every corner. 
 
   
 
As you might've already guessed, there are many mosques in and around downtown Beirut.  We have seen our fair share of mosques in the past few weeks but are continually impressed each time by their beauty and splendor. This mosque was particularly impressive and required a second visit by day to capture its magnificence. The beautiful ocean blue hue of the dome as well as its proximity to a Christian Church  provides an excellent background for a photo op.
 
                                                                         
 
 
On Monday, we set out to score some internet and explore downtown Beirut. Not fifty meters from St. George's we came upon a monument, which we later learned is the site where former Lebanese Prime Minister Rafik Hariri's motorcade was met with an estimated 1000 kg of explosives in February 2005.
 
   
 
Several nearby buildings are still damaged from the blast, bearing witness to the assassination.
 
   
 
   
 
Hariri is remembered most as a reformer and for his devotion to freeing the Lebanese government from Syrian influence. Although many suspect the Syrian government is responsible for his assassination,  there has been no conclusive evidence to confirm this and the investigation is still ongoing.
 
After taking in the power of the Hariri memorial, we stopped at Monroe hotel where we were able to purchase internet, which we could access from Zia thanks to Joe's 5milewifi unit. 
 
On one of our strolls through the city, Joe talked our way onto the 14th floor of an impressive new 26-story office building that is currently under construction. From the balcony we were able to take some good pictures and marvel at the fantastic view of Beirut.
 
   
 
We continued our walk around Beirut, and came upon the ruins of a Roman bath; a reminder of the city's rich history.
 
                                    
 
We also saw many churches and mosques, which are plentiful here. They serve as a reminder of the complexity of the Lebanese population which consists of many different political/religious groups such as the Druzes, Maronites, Sunnis, Shiias, and more. Lebanon has struggled to maintain a delicate peace among these groups since their 15-year civil war ended in the early '90s. Several weeks ago the country came close to another outbreak of civil war when a conflict between the Lebanese government and Hezbollah prompted Hezbollah to take over Beirut; a conflict that lasted a few weeks in which 81 people were killed. Fortunately, this conflict was resolved with the Doha Agreement, which strengthened Hezbollah's presence in the Lebanese government.
 
We stopped for ice cream at Haagen-Daaz in the center of downtown, which had a poster featuring their Doha Agreement cone and read "Taste the Reconciliation". From talking to locals, it seems as if they are just happy to have peace in their city again so they can return to their everyday lives.
 
                                     
 
On Tuesday, we had a full-day tour of the Baqaa valley, which is the main territory of the Hezbollah. In the northern part of the valley, we stopped in Baalbeck, which was the main city in the Middle East during the Roman era. It is situated in an area with rich springs, crossed by two rivers, and sits at the crossroads of important routes that link the Mediterranean coast with central and northern Syria, as well as northern Palestine (modern-day Israel or as it is known in these parts "Occupied Palestine"). Here we saw the ruins of the Great Temple of Jupiter, started at the end of the 1st century BC and added to almost continuously until the end of the 4th century AD. We were all struck by the size of the columns of the temple and its adjacent courtyard.
 
   
 
 
And now, off to Israel.
 
 
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Many thanks to our friend Craig Homenko for his assistance in setting up the website.
We also would like to thank our buddy Scott Brunner who has been kind enough to host the website on his server.
 

 
   

 
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