Sunday, July 16th, Ria de Aldan, Galicia, Spain
 
There is no question about the fact that we are in Europe.  Everything is different.  The coastline is much more varied with high, rocky hills dotted with fragrant pine trees and picturesque villages.  The sea and the air have a stronger, richer smell.  The water is much colder at 68 degrees.  Our schedules have adapted to the European trend of eating late, and the sun doesn't set until after 10:00 at night.  Everything is different, and yet everything is the same.  "Zia", our boat, our home and our flawless conveyance to places far and wide, remains constant.  After two months of guest crew members onboard, we are back to the core crew of just the Fisher/Boyle family.  Our oft-time neighbors on Cenou are again sharing the anchorage with us.  We can still make everyone's day by serving up a taco dinner onboard, and our biggest heartache is still the distance between us and our family and friends. 
 
Approaching the coast of Spain, getting our first glimpse of the European mainland after crossing 3,500 miles of ocean, was spectacular.  Through the haze we could pick out the rugged outlines of small islands and isolated rocks that clutter the coast.  From the earliest stages of planning our trip, we had dreamed of cruising in Europe.  This landfall represented the fulfillment of those dreams.  A little worn out by the last 16 hours of hard sailing, our weariness disappeared as we approached the welcoming arms of the seawall that protects the marina in Baiona.  The heavy winds that had propelled us our final 165 miles diminished within 5 miles of the coast.  We carried our full main and gib into the bay, firing up the engines just outside the marina.  A dockhand in a dinghy came out to greet us and show us to our slip.  As the "Zia" crew exchanged congratulatory hugs and kisses, we reveled in our accomplishment.  Just a few days more than a year ago, we had moved into our new home and here we - and it - were, in Spain.  Wow! 
 
Eager for our first taste of Europe, refreshed by naps and showers, we set foot for the first time on the continent on Tuesday afternoon.  This corner of Spain is a popular vacation destination for locals, and the streets were teeming with pedestrians. 
                                      
The familiar lilt of island-accented English was nowhere to be heard.  Our ears were inundated by a cacophony of lisping, continental Spanish interspersed with a little Portuguese and the occasional French.  In many respects, this felt like our first truly foreign port of call.  As Americans, we were the exception rather than the rule.  It was exciting and intimidating, realizing the scope of our new reality.  Looking at the local beach, in the shadow of the centuries old fort, further accentuated the differences and new horizons that are in store for us.
    
 
Our stops in Bermuda and the Azores eased the transition from tropical paradise to Old World Europe, preparing us for the new challenges in subtle ways.  Trying to figure out what cut of beef to buy in the grocery store in Bermuda, in English, was a little easier than in the Azores in Portuguese.  The big "Modelo" grocery store in Sao Miguel, with its labeled diagram of a cow, made it a little easier, but then again I have no idea where a rib-eye comes from on the animal.  My first grocery shopping expedition in Spain took me to the local market where, luckily, I didn't need to restock my meat or fish supply, but found some fresh lettuce and cucumbers.  A little further up the street was the fruit and vegetable store and across the way I found some marvelously crusty rustic bread at the bakery.  I am sure they have big supermarkets here in some of the larger towns, but I am looking forward to shopping in the more authentic specialty stores.  I can't wait to find the dairy shop!  Hopefully, with a little online help, I'll get a better idea of what to ask for before I have to tackle the meat store.
 
During our three months in the Bahamas, from the cruising mecca of Georgetown, through the isolated beauty of the Exumas, and throughout the more popular hot spots in the Abacos, we often had the opportunity to get away from it all in some sheltered spot all on our own.  If first impressions hold true, that will no longer be the case here in Europe.   The beach in Ria De Aldan, purported to be "secluded" in our cruising guide, is chock full of anchored boats and beach dwellers alike. 
    
 
We did escape some of the crowds at our first anchorage out of Baiona, on the Islas Cies, a group of islands that make up a Parque Nacional just 8 miles away.  The beach we chose on Isla de San Martin is only accessible by boat, although there is a ferry that delivers campers and sun worshipers to the neighboring Isla Del Norte.  I smiled at the familiar sight of the girls collecting shells on the beach, with Zia at anchor in the background. 
    
 
We were warned that boats are not allowed to anchor overnight at the park, so when we saw an official looking "Guardia" boat come and drop the hook around 6pm, Joe dinghied over to get the skinny.  He is thrilled to be able to communicate with the locals and managed to get us special permission to anchor overnight.  We were one of half a dozen boats permitted to do so, and we felt privileged.  As the bay slowly emptied of all the day trippers, we enjoyed our first dinner at anchor in Europe in relative seclusion. 
      
 
Our first swim was a bit of a shocker as the temperature of the North Atlantic ocean at 42 degrees of latitude flooded our lingering tropical memories.  I imagine we will get used to it, in time, and hopefully it will warm up as we head south, but for now the short swim from bow to stern suffices for this old salt! 
 
After our celebratory bon voyage dinner with our Atlantic crewman, Glenn, the "Zia" crew was back on her own.
    
Juliana moved back into her cabin for the first time since Larson was with us in mid-May in Marsh Harbor.  Although we miss the exceptional crew work, boat maintenance and companionship, it is nice to be back to our cruising lifestyle.  The transition is peppered with small changes.  With daylight lingering until 10:30pm, we've taken to dining at eight or nine.  I'm still trying to figure out if this is going to work with the kids, but they have been dozing in until 9 in the morning, so they haven't been missing too much sleep.  Juliana immediately regressed to her old habit of waking us up in the middle of the night but we dealt with it ruthlessly, sending her back to her bed on her own.  Last night she stayed there the whole night, so we are hopeful. 
 
Aside from Baiona, we have not found any wireless internet connectivity in the small resort towns we have visited so far.  We were amazed at how easy it was to communicate with everyone from the Bahamas, and were sure that it  would be just as easy in Europe.  Together with the five hour time change back to the East Coast, I am sorry to think that it won't be as easy as we had hoped.  Nonetheless, our thoughts are with you as always.  Lisa, I hope the surprise birthday party was amazing.  We thought of you guys with smiles on our faces, knowing that a good time was had by all.  We are eagerly anticipating the arrival of the Fisher clan in southern Portugal on August ninth for a week long reunion.  It will be the first time all of us have been together in two or three years.  In the mean time, we hope to head north to La Coruna to discover a little more of this area of Spain known as Galicia. 
    
 
 
All our best,
Christy, Joe, Cassie and Juliana
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Many thanks to our friend Craig Homenko for his assistance in setting up the website.
We also would like to thank our buddy Scott Brunner who has been kind enough to host the website on his server.
   

 
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