Saturday, May 6th - Harbour Island, Bahamas

       

The fabled pink sand beaches of Harbour Island have not disappointed the crew of ZIA.  The beach is a three mile long stretch of soft, barely pink sand with a long gradual drop off to deeper water and protected from big waves and current by an offshore reef .  It is perfect for the kids.  We have been hanging out here with MIAKODA and the four girls have been having a ball.  We parted ways this morning as they took off through the Devil's Backbone for Spanish Wells and on south to the Exumas.  We will hang here for another day or two before stopping in Spanish Wells and then heading back north.  Or maybe we will head west to The Berry Islands for a day or two before returning to the Abacos.  The weather is threatening to be mild and perfect for the foreseeable future so our options are pretty wide open.
 
We arrived in Harbour Island in the middle of the Bahamas Billfish Championship fishing tournament.  After our hugely frustrating fishing experience on the way here, I was excited at the prospect of having a group of experts around and hoped to pick a few brains on the subject.  We anchored off Valentines Resort and Marina, where a majority of the 50 boats were docked.  It was quite something to see them all take off around 7am, heading out to sea for a long day of fishing.  Lines in the water at 8am and out of the water at 4pm, according to the rules.
 
The world of sportfishing is pretty amazing.  This particular tournament has five legs conducted over the course of three months throughout the Bahamas.  It costs about $11,000 to join.  Top prize is $500,000.  The rules and regulations are strictly enforced, as you can imagine.  We were lucky enough to meet Howey and Rose on the beach on Wednesday, a "lay day" during the competition, who explained much of this to us. 
 
The only fish that count are "bill fish."  This includes Blue Marlin, White Marlin, Spearfish and Sailfish.  A boat gets a certain number of points for each, 600 for the Blue, 200 for the White Marlin and the Spearfish, and 100 for a Sailfish.  These aren't fish that you catch for eating, rather for the sport of fighting them and getting them back to the boat.  Most of them are then released.  The Blue Marlin, as you can tell by the number of points allocated, are the prize fish and are typically the only ones that might be "boated."  If you boat a fish, you have to bring it in to be weighed in order to determine the number of points it is worth, a point for each pound.  Therefore, only if the fish is over 600 pounds does it pay to kill it.  The winning boat, "Boomer" caught a 695 pound Blue Marlin on the first day of the competition but unfortunately we were not here to see it.  They are only allowed to use 100 pound test line on their reels, with 500 pound test on the leader, so the trick is all in the give and take of the line as the fish runs and fights against the drag of the reel and the boat.  If it runs too much, the captain has to back down with the engines to keep from running out of line.  If you resist too much, the 100 pound test line just breaks.  Whatever you do, you have to make sure there is no slack in the line.  This allows the fish to shake off the hook. 
 
I complained to Howey and Rose about my problems and it quickly became apparent that I need to fix the drag control on our rod.  This controls the amount of force required to pull the line out once a fish is hooked.  Somehow, ours is broken because we cannot set it tight enough.  I remember when it got snagged in the prop of a passing powerboat going into Cruz Bay in St. John.  This must have messed it up.  Anyway, at least now I can blame a little of it on equipment failure!
 
A few of the boats brought in some good sized Mahi Mahi and I made my way down to the cleaning station to get a few tips on my filleting technique.  I had just read that you can skin the Mahi before cutting the meat off the flesh and I got a hands-on lesson from Vanessa, a bikini clad babe who was fishing with her parents for the tournament. 
 
Vanessa was sympathetic to our fishing woes and generously gave us a big bag of fresh Mahi Mahi.  I guess the next best thing to catching your own is mooching it off someone else!
 
Mooching has been something of a theme for us here in Harbour Island and, dare I say, in our cruising lifestyle in general.  The beach is all open to the public, but there are several nice hotels along the waterfront that also offer restaurant/bar and pool facilities.  After a long afternoon of playing in the water and sand, a quick little dip in the hotel pool does wonders for cleaning out all the sand and washing off the crusty salt.
 
We have been spending our days doing school in the mornings, having lunch either on the boat or in town, and then hanging on the pink sand beach.  Along the stretch of bayside beach where the local fisherman keep their boats there is a couple of food shacks that serve up a variety of dishes for lunch.  Conch being the traditional dish of the Bahamas, one of the stands was devoted entirely to conch salad, a tasty mixture of raw conch marinated in fresh lime with peppers and onions.  We were lucky enough to be there while one of the fisherman was cleaning the conch.  Brian even got a lesson in how to do it himself.  The girls were each given one of the newly vacated conch shells.
 
We stayed out of the sun yesterday but the girls and I want to have one more day at the beach before we move on.  We are planning to transit the Devil's Backbone with one of the local pilots this afternoon or tomorrow.  Our next stop is Spanish Wells, Eleuthera. 
 
I posted some new pictures on the bottom of the April photos page.
 
I hope everyone is enjoying the weekend.  We hear the weather in Annapolis is gorgeous.  The Volvo Ocean Race is restarting from there today, heading for New York.  It is a great day to be on the water in the Chesapeake!
 
Love,
Christy, Joe, Cassie and Juliana
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Many thanks to our friend Craig Homenko for his assistance in setting up the website.
We also would like to thank our buddy Scott Brunner who has been kind enough to host the website on his server.
 

 

   

 
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